Valentine's Day vs The Fiesta of Saint Anton !!

Here we are in early February and snow is on the ground! What a romantic way to begin the month of true love! (unless you're caught in mid-Atlantic coast)  February is a big month for all sorts of Valentine seekers. Chocolatiers form chocolate into hearts and cupids, as well as dipping strawberries into this divine concoction; restaurants stage elaborate dinners and charge elaborate prices for them, children exchange cards and the sale of red construction paper and lace doilies sky rockets, florists seize the moment (I noticed that the market where I regularly purchase 2 dozen roses for $20.00 is staging a Valentine’s special of two dozen red roses for only $60.00 !!!) and of course, merchants of every shape and form are running Valentine’s Day sales….a new mattress for the day or perhaps a circular saw?.....you name it!
Actually, all of this is fine and well so long as you have someone with whom to share your affections, someone who will send you a card or maybe flowers or buy you candy and promise to love you at fever pitch forever and ever. Herein lies the problem; forever and ever is hard work unless you happen to be a dog. A proper canine’s affection is constant, reliable, unswerving and remains so forever and ever. And what does this have to do with the subject at hand?  ……….to explain, I need to take you once again to Spain where Valentine’s Day is barely given a nod. But instead, during this time of year there is a grand fiesta called the festival of Saint Antonio or St. Anton, the patron saint of animals. It’s a time when city, town and village priests bless animals and pray for their health and safety throughout the coming year. Surely, as you love your pet, (of course, it loves you) you will take him/her to the fiesta of St. Anton. Every village in our area keeps this celebration although not particularly in the same way nor on any exact date. The small town near us, Val D’Alba, is perhaps our personal favorite. The focus is on dogs and horses, also some mules and donkeys. Other villages may focus on smaller animals, such as kittens and goldfish. Owners and their darlings begin to assemble hours ahead for a parade which may not begin until 11:00 pm! Things happen later in Spain than to what we’re accustomed. Restaurants rarely open for dinner before 9:30 pm and many village events begin at midnight or 1:00 am.
In Val D’Alba, the pre-fiesta parade of animals and owners lasts between one and two hours and is usually led by a group of magnificent black steeds, immaculately groomed and ridden by señoras in traditional costumes including the wide flat brimmed hats and long black capes flowing behind them. Their posture is perfection, proudly sitting tall and erect, all heads held high, both horse and rider. It is a glorious sight. Mounts of every sort follow, some huge, some small, some with braided manes and some with ribbons tied to ears and tails. Some being led, some ridden by caballeros and some by children; many smaller horses and donkeys pull diminutive carts occupied by wide-eyed niños. And there is the inevitable splendid coach harnessed to six matched white beauties. It could be from a fairy tale. Of course, it’s cold, early February in the mountains is chilling and your breath freezes almost before leaving your body, but it’s part of the charm as you will see. As the parade reaches its end, the smaller animals follow: first come stallions, then smaller horses, ponies, large dogs being led and small dogs being carried. The procession snakes its way through small winding streets and eventually the crowds join in as all advance to the edge of town. There the main events begin to unfold. A bond fire has been laid and is now set afire……no ordinary fire. When fully burning, the flames reach the height of a two story house and take up an area at least as large as a city block. Every animal, as it arrives is lead, driven or ridden around the fire three times…..even the coach with six white horses. Afterwards, as they congregate, the priest appears and the traditional blessings are recited and chanted beneath the cold, clear, star studded sky just as they have been for probably hundreds of years. Excitement continues to mount for the fiesta is about to break into full throb. Tables of drinks, all sorts, appear and the official pastry is passed among the crowds. Ladies of the village have spent considerable energy during the previous days baking the St. Anton’s cakes – hundreds and hundreds of them. With a taste and texture somewhere between bread and pie crust, these pastries are formed into circles, flavored with anise, (properly named Pimpinella anisu) sprinkled with sugar and served only once a year! In the early hours of the following morning, man and beast, tired but blessed, make their way home for a well earned rest.

Here is a recipe for a breakfast pancake which I have adjusted to the flavors of St. Anton and enjoy serving this time of year and especially after having been to the festivities of the night before. I hope you’ll try it. It “puffs” several inches high and is great fun to look at wonderful to eat.

St. Anton Pancake   

                                                           
Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees F

1 stick unsalted butter - Melt in a heavy cast iron skillet or any heavy pan that will go from burner to oven.
4-5 large apples, pealed and cut into good sized chunks
½ cup granulated sugar
2 t. ground anise

Add apple and sugar and anise to melted butter and simmer, stirring occasionally, until apples barely begin to caramelize. While this is happening, prepare batter.

1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
4 large eggs
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 Tablespoon ground anise
1/4 teaspoon salt

Mix all batter ingredients together until smooth, then pour batter over apple mixture and transfer skillet to hot oven. Bake 10 minutes at 450 then reduce heat to 375° and bake another 10-15 minutes or until pancake is puffed and golden. If you wish, pancake can be sprinkled with confectioner’s sugar before serving. Maple syrup is a good addition!

One parting glance at the celebration of St. Anton. The priest of a small village very high in the mountains of Castellon Provence is a particular lover of the event and an excellent rider as well. His favorite horse being a magnificent black stallion. He always chooses the night of a full moon for the celebration of the blessing of the animals. He dresses more like, well, a Zorro type than a priest for this particular night and arrives on horseback. But more note-worthy are his exits. Toward the end of the merriment, he mounts his horse, rides to a slight rise in the land where he is perfectly profiled in the full moon, pulls his horse to a rear, waves his hat, then his greeting booms forth as he rides off into the night……….”Viva St. Anton”
Ah, that I could end this blog with such style…….